Scoop out leaves and grit, then flush with a hose. Watch for water sheeting over the edge — that's a clog telling on itself.
Walk the perimeter with binoculars. Look for missing shingles, curled edges, or debris around vents and flashing.
Swap the filter. Hose down the outdoor condenser fins (power off first). Clear a two-foot radius of leaves and weeds.
Drop water on your deck. If it beads up, you're good. If it soaks in, time to clean, dry, and reseal.
Service the mower, reconnect hoses, rake beds. Plant things before the heat sets in.
A week of water, batteries, a crank radio, cash, copies of insurance papers in a waterproof bag. Refresh in May.
Anything overhanging the roof, brushing siding, or near a power line — get it cut back before June.
Hose off door hardware, light fixtures, AC condenser, railings. Twice a year, more if oceanfront.
Pull the side panels. Look at coil fins and the cabinet base. Coastal-grade coatings extend life 5–10 yrs.
Run every zone, once. Watch for broken heads, geysers, dry patches, and spray hitting the siding.
Siding, walkways, and the deck, in that order. Use the widest nozzle that still does the job — narrow tips strip paint fast.
Run a hand around each frame. Cracked caulk gets a bead of fresh stuff; squished weatherstripping gets replaced.
Pencil-width gaps at the foundation, sill plates, and where pipes enter. Seal with copper mesh and expanding foam.
Blade on the highest reasonable setting. Water deep and less often, early morning, twice a week.
Pull shutters from storage, label panels by window, dry-fit hardware. If you use plywood, pre-cut it now.
Swap the filter, vacuum around the unit, and test-fire it for twenty minutes. Any odd smells or bangs? Call the pro now, not in January.
Before the first fire: damper opens, flue is clear, no nest in the cap. Creosote build-up is a real fire risk.
Disconnect hoses. Close the interior shut-off for each outdoor spigot, then open the spigot to drain. Insulate exterior-wall pipes.
Do this after the last leaves drop. Clear downspouts and direct them away from the foundation.
Drain the mower fuel or add stabilizer. Cover or bring in the grill. Shake out and store patio cushions.
Look for lifted shingles, displaced fence panels, water marks on ceilings, and clogged storm drains.
Foam sleeves on every pipe in unconditioned space — garage, crawlspace, exterior walls.
Insulating blanket on the tank and on the first 6 ft of hot-water pipe. Saves money even on new units.
R-49 or better. Look for compressed batts, daylight at the eaves, and missing baffles at the soffits.
Telescoping aluminum, 16+ ft. Stage it by a door before the first storm.
Asphalt sealer every 2–3 yr; concrete sealer on a 5-yr cycle. Do it before the first thaw cycle.
Big icicles along the eaves mean warm air is escaping into your attic. Real fix: attic insulation. Urgent fix: roof rake.
Aim for 30–50%. Below 30, add a humidifier. Above 50, run the bath fan longer and crack a window.
Hold a candle near window edges on a breezy day — the flame tattles. Listen for toilets that cycle on their own.
Rake low-slope and flat roofs after big snows. Keep a path to every exit and to the gas meter.
Heat at 55°F or higher even when away. Open cabinet doors under sinks during deep freezes.
Hose off the floor whenever the temp gets above freezing. Salt eats concrete and rebar.
Smoke alarm on every level and outside every sleeping area. CO alarm near every bedroom. Press the test button.
One ABC-rated extinguisher in the kitchen, one near the furnace, one in the garage. Pressure gauge in the green. Walk the escape plan with everyone.
Water main, gas meter, and electrical panel. Everyone in the house should know where each one is and how to operate it in the dark.
This page covers the big-rock seasonal tasks. Your actual home has hundreds more — every appliance, fixture, filter, and warranty on its own clock. I am Home keeps track of all of it for you.
Atlantic hurricane season runs June 1 to November 30. In New Brunswick, the practical prep window is May — pull shutters out of storage, top up the kit, and trim trees back from the house. Storms can land outside that window; the dates are about peak likelihood, not a guarantee.
Three habits: insulate every exposed pipe (foam sleeves on garage, crawlspace, and exterior-wall runs); never let the house dip below 55°F, even when you're away; on the coldest nights, open cabinets under sinks so warm air reaches the pipes inside the wall. The pipe that bursts is almost always the one you couldn't see.
Ice dams are an insulation problem disguised as a roof problem. Heat escaping into a cold attic melts snow on the roof; meltwater refreezes at the cold eaves and backs up under the shingles. The real fix is R-49+ attic insulation with clear soffit baffles. The urgent fix during a storm is a roof rake — buy it in October, not after the first 6-inch snow.
A weekend per season — spring, summer, fall, winter — handles 80% of what matters. Layer in monthly safety checks (smoke/CO test, breaker panel glance) and one yearly walk of the big shut-offs (water main, gas, electrical). The pattern that fails homeowners isn't doing too little; it's doing nothing for two years and then trying to catch up at once.
Most of it is DIY — gutters, filters, windows, sealants, irrigation, pest perimeter. Hire a pro for: anything on the roof past a quick eyeball with binoculars, gas-line work, the main electrical panel, and any plumbing repair that involves soldering or splicing into a main. There's no prize for bravery on those — the cost of a mistake is much higher than the cost of the call.