Scoop out leaves and grit, then flush with a hose. Watch for water sheeting over the edge — that's a clog telling on itself.
Walk the perimeter with binoculars. Look for missing shingles, curled edges, or debris around vents and flashing.
Swap the filter. Hose down the outdoor condenser fins (power off first). Clear a two-foot radius of leaves and weeds.
Drop water on your deck. If it beads up, you're good. If it soaks in, time to clean, dry, and reseal.
Service the mower, reconnect hoses, rake beds. Plant things before the heat sets in.
A week of water, batteries, a crank radio, cash, copies of insurance papers in a waterproof bag. Refresh in May.
Anything overhanging the roof, brushing siding, or near a power line — get it cut back before June.
Solar shades, awnings, or trees. The afternoon sun on bare glass is what cooks the house.
Annual professional inspection — or a careful DIY walk along sill plates with a flashlight and screwdriver.
Mulch and woody beds need a 6-inch gap from siding. Bare soil or gravel along the foundation.
Remove the cover, top off, balance chemistry, run pump 24 hours, vacuum and brush.
Hose off door hardware, light fixtures, AC condenser, railings. Twice a year, more if oceanfront.
Pull the side panels. Look at coil fins and the cabinet base. Coastal-grade coatings extend life 5–10 yrs.
Bathrooms, closets, and any wall against a cool surface. Bleach + ventilation; investigate the source.
Window screens, lanai screens, vents — any tear gets patched. Mosquitoes move in fast.
Run every zone, once. Watch for broken heads, geysers, dry patches, and spray hitting the siding.
Siding, walkways, and the deck, in that order. Use the widest nozzle that still does the job — narrow tips strip paint fast.
Run a hand around each frame. Cracked caulk gets a bead of fresh stuff; squished weatherstripping gets replaced.
Pencil-width gaps at the foundation, sill plates, and where pipes enter. Seal with copper mesh and expanding foam.
Blade on the highest reasonable setting. Water deep and less often, early morning, twice a week.
Pull shutters from storage, label panels by window, dry-fit hardware. If you use plywood, pre-cut it now.
Second filter swap of the year. Listen for changes — squeals, longer runtime, or warm vents.
Soffit vents clear, ridge vent unblocked, attic fan working. 140°F attic = AC works double.
Basement or crawlspace at 50% RH or below. Empty the bucket or run a condensate line to a drain.
Vapor barrier intact, no standing water, no bug trails. Encapsulation pays off in this climate.
Brush walls, skim, empty baskets, test chlorine and pH. Backwash filter when pressure climbs 8 psi.
Before the first fire: damper opens, flue is clear, no nest in the cap. Creosote build-up is a real fire risk.
Do this after the last leaves drop. Clear downspouts and direct them away from the foundation.
Drain the mower fuel or add stabilizer. Cover or bring in the grill. Shake out and store patio cushions.
Look for lifted shingles, displaced fence panels, water marks on ceilings, and clogged storm drains.
Lower water below skimmer, blow out lines, add anti-freeze plug, secure cover.
Hold a candle near window edges on a breezy day — the flame tattles. Listen for toilets that cycle on their own.
Smoke alarm on every level and outside every sleeping area. CO alarm near every bedroom. Press the test button.
One ABC-rated extinguisher in the kitchen, one near the furnace, one in the garage. Pressure gauge in the green. Walk the escape plan with everyone.
Water main, gas meter, and electrical panel. Everyone in the house should know where each one is and how to operate it in the dark.
This page covers the big-rock seasonal tasks. Your actual home has hundreds more — every appliance, fixture, filter, and warranty on its own clock. I am Home keeps track of all of it for you.
Atlantic hurricane season runs June 1 to November 30. In Florida, the practical prep window is May — pull shutters out of storage, top up the kit, and trim trees back from the house. Storms can land outside that window; the dates are about peak likelihood, not a guarantee.
Three free wins: swap the filter twice a season (not once), clear the outdoor condenser of leaves and debris, and check the attic — if it's over 140°F up there, ventilation is your problem, not the AC. The paid win that pays back fastest is shading west-facing windows; an unblocked west window in July gains as much heat as a small space heater.
An annual professional inspection is cheap insurance ($0–125 a year) — termites cause about $5B in U.S. damage annually and aren't covered by homeowner's insurance. Between visits, walk the sill plates with a flashlight and screwdriver, keep mulch and woody beds 6+ inches off the siding, and watch for mud tubes on the foundation.
Without a real winter, the pool stays open year-round. Run a weekly routine — brush walls, skim, empty baskets, test chlorine + pH, backwash the filter when pressure climbs ~8 psi. Algae goes from clear to green in two warm days; staying ahead of it is the whole game.
A weekend per season — spring, summer, fall, winter — handles 80% of what matters. Layer in monthly safety checks (smoke/CO test, breaker panel glance) and one yearly walk of the big shut-offs (water main, gas, electrical). The pattern that fails homeowners isn't doing too little; it's doing nothing for two years and then trying to catch up at once.
Most of it is DIY — gutters, filters, windows, sealants, irrigation, pest perimeter. Hire a pro for: anything on the roof past a quick eyeball with binoculars, gas-line work, the main electrical panel, and any plumbing repair that involves soldering or splicing into a main. There's no prize for bravery on those — the cost of a mistake is much higher than the cost of the call.