Glossary

Blown-In Insulation

Blown-In Insulation

Blown-in insulation consists of loose paper or fiberglass chunks that a machine sprays into your attic or wall cavities. You'll use this fluffy material to quickly cover large spaces and fill tight gaps around pipes and wires. It creates a thick thermal blanket that stops heat from leaving your home during winter.

Origin

The name describes the mechanical installation process where a large hose literally blows the loose material into place. The technique gained popularity in the 1950s as a faster alternative to unrolling long fiberglass batts by hand.

How you'll see it used

  • Your home inspector notes on the final report that the attic only has four inches of blown-in insulation and recommends adding more to lower your winter heating bills.
  • An energy auditor hands you a quote for 800 dollars to add a fresh 10-inch layer of blown-in cellulose over your existing attic insulation.
  • You notice your second-floor bedrooms stay freezing in January, so you hire a contractor to fill the empty exterior wall cavities with blown-in fiberglass.

What It Is and How It Works

Blown-in insulation is exactly what it sounds like. It consists of loose, fluffy material that a machine blows through a long hose into your home. Installers usually spray it across your attic floor or into empty wall cavities. Instead of unrolling large sheets of fiberglass, the loose chunks settle like snow to create a thick thermal blanket. This method works great because the tiny pieces easily wrap around obstacles. Your attic is full of electrical wires, plumbing pipes, and light fixtures. Rolled insulation leaves small gaps around these items. Blown-in material fills every tiny crack and tight corner to stop air leaks.

Why It Matters for Your Home

Your attic is the main place where heat escapes your house in the winter. In the summer, a hot attic pushes heat down into your living rooms. A thick layer of blown-in insulation stops this heat transfer. It keeps your home comfortable and takes a huge load off your heating and cooling equipment. You can read more about keeping your home comfortable in our HVAC & Climate Control guide.

Adding more insulation is one of the fastest ways to lower your utility bills. If your house feels drafty or your energy bills spike in January, you might need more attic insulation. You measure insulation by its R-value. A higher R-value means better resistance to heat flow. Most building codes require an R-value between 30 and 60 in the attic. This usually means you need 10 to 20 inches of blown-in material. You'll normally pay 1.50 to 3.00 dollars per square foot for a professional installation. Prices vary based on your location, the material you choose, and how much old insulation needs to be removed.

Common Materials You Will See

When you hire a contractor, they'll usually offer two main types of loose-fill insulation. Both work well, but they have different features. Cellulose is ground-up recycled paper and cardboard treated with fire retardant. It blocks air very well and is eco-friendly. However, it can settle over time and lose some thickness. Fiberglass is tiny glass fibers spun together into small, fluffy chunks. It's very light and doesn't absorb water easily. It can irritate your skin and lungs if you touch it.

What to Watch For Over Time

Blown-in insulation is mostly maintenance-free. Once it's in your attic, you just leave it alone. However, a few common house problems can ruin it.

  • Settling: Gravity pulls the loose chunks down over the years. Cellulose can shrink by up to 20 percent. If your insulation looks thin or flat, you might need a contractor to blow a fresh layer over the top.
  • Water damage: A small roof leak will soak the fluffy material. Wet insulation stops blocking heat and can grow mold quickly. If you spot a leak, check our Roofing guide to fix the source before replacing the wet insulation.
  • Critters: Mice, rats, and squirrels love to build warm nests in loose insulation. If you hear scratching noises above your ceiling, you might have visitors. You can learn more in our Pest Control guide.

Never step on blown-in insulation. It hides the wooden ceiling joists beneath it. If you step in the wrong spot, you'll fall right through the drywall ceiling into the room below. Stepping on it also crushes the material and ruins its ability to trap heat.

Should You Do It Yourself?

Many home improvement stores rent insulation blowing machines. You can buy bags of cellulose or fiberglass and do the job yourself. It takes two people to do the work. One person stays outside to feed the bags of material into the hopper. The second person crawls into the attic to aim the heavy hose. Doing it yourself saves money on labor. However, it's a dirty, itchy, and sweaty job. Attics get dangerously hot in the summer. You also have to be careful not to cover up your attic air vents. If you block the vents in your roof eaves, moisture will build up and rot your wood. For many homeowners, paying a professional is worth the extra cost just to avoid the mess.

Frequently asked

Can I put new blown-in insulation over my old insulation?

Yes, you can usually blow new material right over the old stuff. You only need to remove the old insulation if it's wet, moldy, or filled with pest droppings.

How long does blown-in insulation last?

It can easily last 20 to 30 years under the right conditions. However, materials like cellulose will slowly settle over time and lose some of their fluffiness, which means you might need a top-off sooner.

Does blown-in insulation block sound between rooms?

Yes, filling an empty wall cavity with loose insulation will muffle noises. Cellulose is especially good at absorbing sound because it's very dense and packs tightly into the wall.

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